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8/15/2023 Why does your hair curl in the summer? A chemist explains the science behind hair structure The three layers of hair If you have curly hair, you know that every day is a new adventure. What will my hair do today? Why does it curl better on some days than others? And even those without naturally curly hair might notice their hair curling—or, let's be honest, frizzing—a bit on humid summer days. As a person with curly hair, I'm always looking for the best way to care for and understand my hair. As a chemist, I'm interested in the science behind how my hair behaves at the molecular level. There are different hair types, from straight to curly, and they behave differently depending on their structure. But what hairs are made up of at the molecular level is the same. Hair structure Hair begins growing under the skin's surface, but it's what happens after it pokes through the skin that determines whether you have a good hair day or a bad one. Each hair can have three layers—the medulla, the cortex and the cuticle. You can think of each hair like a tiny tree trunk. The innermost, or core layer, is the medulla. This layer holds moisture, much like the pith in the center of a tree trunk. This layer is also very fragile, but only thick or coarse hairs contain this part—so those with thin or blond hair typically don't have the medulla layer in their hairs. Next is the cortex, which makes up most of a hair and is analogous to the wood of a tree. The cortex is made up of spring-shaped protein molecules that lie in parallel rows in a cylindrical bundle. The exact shape of that bundle is determined by the hair follicle, which is a pore on the skin from where the hair grows. How the hair grows out of the follicle influences the distribution of its proteins. So a straight follicle produces straight hair and a curved follicle produces curly hair. The less evenly distributed the squiggly proteins are, the curlier the hair. Your genetic code also plays a role in the shape of the cortex and, therefore, the shape and thickness of your hair.  A hair’s cuticle under a microscope. Lastly, the outermost layer of a hair is called the cuticle. The cuticle is like the bark of a tree—and it even looks like bark under a microscope. It's the cuticle's job to protect the cortex, but the cuticle is very easily damaged. Imagine lifting or removing the bark from a tree. Doing so would leave the wood inside susceptible to moisture loss, exposure to the environment and damage. The same is true for each hair. When the cuticle is damaged from brushing, chemicals, wind or heat, the proteins of the cortex have a much more difficult time lying smoothly together. This means they can lose moisture, gain moisture, fray like a rope—this causes split ends—and even break. All these factors can influence how your hair looks at any given moment. Hair in the summer So what does all of this have to do with humidity? Well, hair proteins contain many permanent chemical bonds. Only chemical treatments like perms or straightening can change these bonds. But there's another natural phenomenon that keeps the protein molecules in the cortex in line—something called hydrogen bonding. The long, stringy protein molecules in the cortex contain tiny positive and negative charges throughout their structure. Because opposite charges attract each other, entire rows of proteins can be attracted to each other like tiny, weak magnets. Heating or wetting your hair breaks the magnetlike attraction between these rows of proteins. So, heat and water can rearrange the proteins in your hair by breaking the hydrogen bonds that keep their structure together. Water is one of the best molecules at hydrogen bonding. So when a molecule of water has the opportunity to hydrogen bond with something, it will. In your hair, water can form hydrogen bonds between the rows of proteins in your hair's cortex. It is the extent to which this happens that determines your hair's fate. When just a little water enters the hair, like it might in lower humidity conditions or when the cuticle is healthy and able to keep too much water out of the cortex, your hair may curl. When humidity is high, or the cuticle is damaged, more water enters the hair. Too much water can swell and crack the cuticle, making hair look frizzy. Many people consider high humidity to be the problem behind frizzy hair, but styling your hair under high humidity and then entering a less humid environment can also be an issue. Water molecules leaving the hair's cortex can also lead to a change in hair behavior. Treating summer hair A damaged cuticle layer leaves the cortex more susceptible to water molecules creeping in or out and wreaking havoc on your hair. Anytime water molecules travel in or out, your hair's structure suffers and your hairstyle may be ruined. When the cuticle is healthy, it can protect the cortex, making your hair less susceptible to changes in the weather or environment. The bottom line is that a healthy hair cuticle helps keep proper moisture in the cortex. Heat from styling tools is the most common culprit behind damaged cuticles, but chemical treatments, brushing, sun and wind can also cause damage. Avoiding these activities can help, but some things, such as exposure to the sun, can't be avoided. You can also take care of your scalp—a clean, healthy scalp leads to healthy hair cuticles. Using moisturizing products on your hair can help maintain cuticle health as well. Oils and moisturizing treatments can even restore damaged cuticles. The good news is that by understanding your hair and treating it well, you can help prevent the undesired effects of humidity. from PHYS.org
 If you've been using box hair dye to color your hair, now might be time to reconsider your choice. While box hair dye can be convenient and affordable, it comes with a range of potential drawbacks that can negatively impact your hair’s health and appearance. Here, we’re sharing 11 reasons you’ll want to switch from box hair dye to professional hair dye in a salon. 1. Box dyes typically contain metallic dyes. Many box dyes use metallic salts such as lead, copper, and silver to dye your hair, and can cause chemical reactions. While these dyes can provide a quick color fix, they can also cause serious damage to your hair. Over time, metallic dyes can build up on the hair shaft and create a dull, brassy look. Additionally, when you try to remove box dye, the metallic dyes can react with professional color, making it difficult to achieve the desired result. 2. Box color isn't a one-size-fits-all solution. Everyone's hair is different—and box dyes aren't designed to take into account your individual hair types, textures, and colors. So, the color you achieve with a box dye may not be the same as the color you see on the box. Box dyes typically contain a limited range of colors, so you may not be able to achieve the exact shade you're looking for. 3. Going back and forth between salon color and box color is a bad idea. If you've been using box dyes for a while and decide to switch to salon color, it's important to stick with salon color. Going back and forth between salon color and box color can cause damage to your hair and make it difficult for your colorist to achieve the desired result. Also, box dyes can contain ingredients that can react negatively with salon color—so it's best to avoid them altogether. 4. Time and money spent on color corrections can add up. If you've had a bad experience with box dye, you know how difficult it can be to correct the color. Color corrections are time-consuming and expensive. By switching to professional hair dye in a salon, you can almost certainly eliminate the need for color corrections altogether and achieve the color you want from the start. 5. Professional hair dye is less damaging to your hair. Professional hair dye is formulated with high-quality ingredients that are much more gentle and less damaging to your hair than box dyes. Another plus: Salon color is applied by trained professionals who know how to minimize damage and protect the health of your hair. 6. Professional hair dye lasts longer than box dye. Get more for your money. Salon color is designed to last longer than box dye, which means you'll need to touch up your color less frequently. This can save you time and money in the long run, as well as reduce the damage caused by frequent coloring`. 7. Salon color is customized to your hair. When getting your hair professionally colored in a salon, your stylist will take into account your individual hair type, texture, and color to create a customized color that works for you. So, you'll get a natural, flattering color that's tailored to your needs. 8. Professional hair dye is more consistent. Box dyes can be unpredictable. The color you get may vary from one application to the next. With salon color, you'll get more consistent results every time. 9. Professional hair dye can be used for a range of color techniques. Want to opt for highlights, balayage, or ombre color? If you're looking to achieve a more complex color look like one of the effects above, salon color is the way to go. These techniques require specialized knowledge and training, and they can't be achieved with box dye. 10. Salon color can enhance the overall health of your hair. Professional hair dye contains ingredients that can enhance your hair’s overall health and appearance. These ingredients can strengthen your hair, add shine, and improve its texture—leaving you with healthy strands. Kenra Color’s Balancing Complex 5 allows for improved condition and manageability of the hair. 11. Trying to save money in the short term may not always equate to savings in the long run. While box dye may be cheaper than salon color, the long-term costs can add up. If you have to correct the color or deal with damaged hair, the costs can quickly outweigh the initial savings. By investing in a professional hair color appointment, you can avoid these costs and achieve a better overall result. Switching from box hair dye to a professional color service in a salon is a smart choice for anyone looking for vibrant, high-quality, long-lasting hair color. By avoiding the damaging effects of metallic dyes, getting a customized color, and making the most of trained professionals’ expertise, you can achieve your desired hair color—with less damage and less hassle. You’ll also enjoy healthier, shinier hair overall. Think outside the box. I’ll see you at the salon. from KenraProfessional
Rosemary Oil Hair Hack Spurs 331% Search Increase Analysis of Google search data has revealed that online searches for ‘rosemary oil’ have skyrocketed 135% over the past year in the UK due to the huge surge of interest generated through TikTok.  A new finding by beauty and wellness marketplace Fresha analysed Google search data for searches related to the hair hack, which revealed a 135% increase over the past year and a 695% increase over the past five years just in the United Kingdom. Searches for ‘rosemary oil’ have also gained interest across the globe, with an increase in worldwide searches of 331% over the past five years. The interest in rosemary oil gained popularity on social media app TikTok after beauty and wellness influencers shared their experiences using the product while showcasing the results after around six weeks.  The interest in rosemary oil alongside the hashtag #hairtok has racked up an astonishing number of views. The hashtag #rosemaryoil has totalled 1.3 billion views, alongside #rosemaryoilforhairgrowth reaching 212.3 million views, proving the curiosity of TikTok users in the oil. What does rosemary oil do to your hair? According to Fresha's research, rosemary oil stimulates and promotes hair growth, battles against dandruff, and prevents premature greying; it is also proven to add shine and a healthy glow to the hair after a more extended period of regular use.  The beauty influencers on TikTok recommend using rosemary oil as part of your hair care routine, not to expect results after the first few uses and sticking with it as you could see incredible differences in your hair's health even after six weeks. Searches for ‘rosemary oil for hair’ have seen a 168% increase over the past year in the United Kingdom alone, as well as an increase of 73% in the United States and 52% worldwide over the past twelve months. The interest in tutorials has also skyrocketed on Google, with searches for ‘how to use rosemary oil in hair’ increasing 547% over the past year in the United Kingdom. How often should you use rosemary oil in your hair? It is recommended if you have thinner, lighter and easily damaged hair, you should use the oil once a week as a treatment. If dandruff is what you want to battle, then use a few drops of rosemary oil alongside gentler oils such as coconut, caster or jojoba oil; it can be used up to four times a week for shorter periods of time.  Mixing rosemary oil with lighter oils such as these will help dilute the rosemary oil's strength and work to soothe and nurture the hair while using the natural oils. Interest in haircare has been on the rise, particularly since the hashtag #hairtok gained popularity on the app. The hashtag is commonly used by those sharing tips and tricks on styling, maintaining and looking after all hair types, allowing users to search and explore the millions of videos posted; #hairtok has surpassed 65.3 billion views. How many people want to improve their haircare routine? If you want to up your haircare routine and give your locks the best chance of looking gorgeous for longer, the first thing to do is figure out your hair type and hair needs. Your hairstylist will suggest getting regular haircuts every eight to twelve weeks and provide some advice on what your hair really needs. If your hair is dull and lifeless, it is important for you to understand what products to use and how to use them; the same as if your hair is thin and weak, your hairstylist should help you with answers to all your questions.  Searches for ‘healthy hair mask’ have increased by 575% over the past month in the United Kingdom alone, proving the desperate urge to seek the healthiest products and treatment for improving routines. Not only are nourishing hair masks gaining interest online, but searches for how to achieve heatless curls to avoid heat damage have also risen tremendously worldwide, with searches for ‘heatless curls’ increasing by 274% worldwide. William Zeqiri, founder and CEO of Fresha, commented on the findings:  Hairstylists say there are many rules they never break when it comes to hair — and you may be breaking some of them every day. By Jillian Wilson  Between bobs, pixie cuts, balayage, bangs, cornrows and extensions, there are many hairstyles that come and go throughout your lifetime. But while these hairstyles may change every few months or years, your hair health is something that’s important to upkeep throughout your life. You probably know the basics of hair health, but hairstylists say there are many rules they never break when it comes to their or their clients’ hair ― and you may be breaking some of them every day. Below, hairstylists share what they won’t do to their hair. Here are the top mistakes. Applying Conditioner At The Roots Who knew that your conditioner application should actually start at your ends, not at your roots? We’ve all been conditioning our hair incorrectly, according to Tatum Neill, the creative director for Aveda Arts & Sciences Institutes and Elevate Hair. “Ideally, it’s almost like shampoo and conditioner should be applied in opposite,” Neill said. “Typically when we have dirt and oil in the hair, it’s at the scalp level. And typically when we have dryness and damage on the hair, it’s on the end.” “Most people put shampoo on the top of the head, and they put conditioner on top of the head, right?” Well, you don’t need conditioner at your roots, he explained. “You have natural sebum that’s coming out every day — the top of your head, the roots, should have plenty of oil.” Applying shampoo and conditioner at the roots is habitual, but conditioner really matters most at your ends, Neill added. Or Skipping Conditioner, For That Matter “I never shampoo or detox hair without adding moisture back in,” said Ash Therese, the salon director and head stylist at The Bird House Salon in New York. “I know that finer hair types, a lot of people feel like conditioner [or] leave-in conditioners can weigh their hair down. In my opinion, there is a product for everyone.” It’s an important step — just like you apply moisturizer to your skin, you should apply moisture to your hair. For color-treated hair, this is even more important, she noted. “Always adding moisture back in, whether it be a leave-in conditioner — I know a lot of people are doing K18 right now, which I think is a wonderful product — or just conditioning in the shower,” Therese said. And that should be a good-quality conditioner, she said. “The two-in-one shampoo conditioner things, I would never use on my client’s hair or my own,” she added. Only Using Sulfate-Free Shampoo “I wouldn’t use a sulfate-free shampoo exclusively to wash my hair,” said Titi Bello, a hair coach and founder of Ori Lifestyle, a natural hair care brand and education company. While sulfate-free shampoos do not strip the hair as much as shampoos with sulfates, Bello said there is a place for both kinds of shampoo in a healthy hair regimen. Sulfates are helpful in achieving a deep clean, which can help with both scalp and hair health, she said. “I’ve had too many clients that suffer from dry scalp or flaky scalp, just low-key scalp conditions ... and often when I ask them to introduce a shampoo with sulfates and when they do so, within a month they find that the scalp issue has cleared,” Bello said. Sulfate-free shampoos gained popularity when sulfates were wrongly linked to cancer, Bello said. Since then, studies have found that sulfates are not carcinogenic. For some people, sulfates can cause irritation (as can any product), Bello said. If that’s you, don’t use a shampoo with sulfates. But for those who don’t have this problem, Bello said it’s a good idea to use each type of shampoo regularly.  Skipping Heat Protectant “Something I stress, like the number one thing in my chair, is heat protection,” said Shantel Keeley, the co-owner of Platinum Salon in Connecticut. “I never style my hair or any of my client’s hair without using some kind of heat protection product.” “Heat damage is irreversible. I’ve seen pretty extreme damage come from hot tools,” she added. With hot tools being so accessible and touted as a way to save time and money, it’s easy to fall into frequent heat styling — but it’s important to make sure you protect your hair before applying high heat to it. When it comes to what product to use, Keely said she often uses Magic Myst, which is a heat protectant and leave-in conditioner. It’s important that you don’t let a heat protectant sit around in your cabinet for too long. “You should always be checking the expiration date on the back of your products because they do lose their effectiveness,” Keely said. She added that most beauty products have a number on the back (that looks like this) that tells you how many months the opened product is good for, whether that’s 12, 18, 24 months and so on. Not Drying Roots First When Using A Blow Dryer “If you are blow drying your hair, it’s important that you think about drying it from your roots to ends,” Neill said. If you dry the ends first, any moisture from the roots is going to go down to the end of your hair and get the ends wet again. This will not only ruin your hairstyle but require you to go through it again with a hot blow dryer, which can result in damage. “A lot of times people don’t focus enough ... at the root level to accomplish their style,” Neill said. Skimping On Product Quality While you can, of course, find affordable, well-made hair tools, Therese said price can sometimes reflect the quality of an item (like with anything). “I’ve seen many clients come in who have bought the, you know, $15, $20 blow dry brush and the plates get so hot and the air is coming through the plate [and] it’s causing significant breakage,” Therese said. “I just always suggest doing your research, especially when it comes to hot tools because ... things are priced a lot of times, not always, with their quality in mind,” she added. In other words, if you find a blow-dry brush or curling iron for $15 and the original is $150, there is usually a reason and sometimes it is quality control, Therese said.  Turning The Temperature Of A Curling Iron Or Straightener All The Way Up It should go without saying that frying your hair is not a good thing, but that’s exactly what you’re doing when you put your hot tools on their highest setting. While your curling iron may go up to 450 degrees, you don’t want to do your hair at the high setting. “I always tell people to keep it at 350 or lower,” Keely said. Super-high heat can actually toast your hair, she noted. “The best thing you can do is to try to prevent any damage before it happens, Keely said. Relying On Heavy Tension Styles “I really try to stay away from heavy tension styling that really puts a lot of stress on the hair shaft or hair follicles that can over time cause hair loss,” said Nikka Whisenhunt, a natural hair stylist and trichology specialist at Aesthetics Salon in Virginia. This includes braids and also weaves when the braids are too tight. She stays away from these kinds of styles for both herself and her clients for longevity’s sake. Over time, these styles can cause trauma to the scalp and result in thinning hair or bald patches. Bello agreed with this and said while she used to wear braids often when she was younger, she now only wears them once a year. Why? Just like our muscles, our hair ages, too, Bello said. “Hair ages — it’s not as strong as it once was it’s not as dense as it once was,” Bello said. “As we age, I am a firm believer in tailoring our hair practices to our hair needs.” And in this case, that means taking the pressure off her scalp by wearing braids less frequently. Ignoring Maintenance Whisenhunt said she always makes sure her clients stay up-to-date on their hair cuts and trims along with their deep-conditioning treatments and scalp health. This helps keep the hair healthy all year, whether you have untouched hair (meaning no chemical treatments) or are someone who likes to get highlights or other chemical treatments. from HuffPost
5/25/2023 Why is Rosemary Hair Oil Trending? Analysis of Google search data has revealed that online searches for ‘rosemary oil’ have skyrocketed 135% over the past year in the UK due to the huge surge of interest generated through TikTok. A new finding by beauty and wellness marketplace Fresha analyzed Google search data for searches related to the hair hack, which revealed a 135% increase over the past year and a 695% increase over the past five years just in the United Kingdom. Searches for ‘rosemary oil’ have also gained interest across the globe, with an increase in worldwide searches of 331% over the past five years. The interest in rosemary oil gained popularity on social media app TikTok after beauty and wellness influencers shared their experiences using the product while showcasing the results after around six weeks. “The power of social media, especially TikTok, allows influencers worldwide to share their experiences and knowledge with those who might want to know more about a particular beauty topic but don’t know quite where to start," shares William Zeqiri, founder and CEO of Fresha. "These findings are a definite eye-opener to see just how much exposure TikTok can offer to such a simple and accessible substance like rosemary oil and proves just how many people are interested in natural remedies of haircare which are fun and easily manageable, even if you are a regular salon visitor.” The interest in rosemary oil alongside the hashtag #hairtok has racked up an astonishing number of views. The hashtag #rosemaryoil has totaled 1.3 billion views, alongside #rosemaryoilforhairgrowth reaching 212.3 million views, proving the curiosity of TikTok users in the oil. What does rosemary oil do to your hair? The oil stimulates and promotes hair growth, battles against dandruff and prevents premature graying. It is also proven to add shine and a healthy glow to the hair after a more extended period of regular use. The beauty influencers on TikTok recommend using rosemary oil as part of your hair care routine, not to expect results after the first few uses and sticking with it as you could see incredible differences in your hair's health even after six weeks. How often should you use rosemary oil in your hair? It is recommended if you have thinner, lighter and easily damaged hair, you should use the oil once a week as a treatment. If dandruff is what you want to battle, then use a few drops of rosemary oil alongside gentler oils such as coconut, caster or jojoba oil. It can be used up to four times a week for shorter periods of time. Mixing rosemary oil with lighter oils such as these will help dilute the rosemary oil's strength and work to soothe and nurture the hair while using the natural oils. from BeautyLaunchPad
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